Climbing Tocllaraju in 14 Days
Carhuaz Province – Peru
Elevation:
(19,797ft/6.034m)
Difficulty
Intermediate/Advanced
Duration
14 days
Itinerary
We will have breakfast early in the morning; afterwards transfer to the bus station to take the bus to Huaraz town (10,138ft/3.090m). The bus ride will take around 9 hours. In Huaraz we get settled into our hotel and relax for the rest of the afternoon (B/-/-)
After an early breakfast, we will drive for about an hour to the trailhead at (10,991ft/3.350m). We will hike for about 4 hours to Churup Lake (14,764ft/4.500m). The round trip back to Huaraz will take around 8 hours. Return to the hotel in the afternoon. In the early evening, the group will make final preparations for the coming days, gear check and briefing, overnight in the hotel (B/-/-)
We will get up early in the morning, around 3 am; eat breakfast, put on our climbing gear and start hiking at 4 am. We will be walking up rocky terrain, which is not too steep (40º). It will take us around 2 to 3 hours to the beginning of the glacier, where we rope up and put on crampons. We will continue for another hour or so to the summit (17,791ft/5.423m). Once here, we will have great views of Ranrapalca, Oshapalca, Tocllaraju, Palcaraju, Ishinca, etc. We will rest and start going down to camp. The round trip will take us 5 to 6 hours and dinner will be served by late afternoon; overnight in tents (B/-/D)
We will wake up very early in the morning, around 2 am, eat a light breakfast, prepare/put on our climbing equipment and start the climb. The first 3 hours are going to be on grassy and rocky slopes until we get to the glacier entrance, where we will put crampons on and rope up. The first 2 hours here will be relatively flat (25º-30º) and easy. However, the last hour will be quite demanding with up to 50º. We will reach the top (18,143ft/5.530m) after 6 to 7 hours. Once there, we can admire Ranrapalca, Tocllaraju, Pucarima, Urus, etc. We will rest, take some pictures and start going down to base camp. The round trip will take us 9 to 10 hours. Dinner will be served by late afternoon; overnight in tents (B/-/D)
On this day we will relax, hanging around and prepare for the upcoming hikes. There is also a place for rock climbing, overnight in tents (B/-/D)
We will leave the base camp around 10 am. The first 2 hours of the hike are on stony slopes, but then it becomes a very big moraine with huge broken blocks of rock. It will take us more or less an hour to cross this tricky area to the Moraine Camp (16,404ft/5.000m). We will set up our tents and accommodate our belongings. The whole hike will take us 3 to 4 hours. Dinner will be served around 5 pm. Overnight in tents (B/-/D)
We will get up very early, around 1 am, eat a light breakfast, put our climbing gear on and around 2 am start our climb towards the summit. We will be going up on moderate glacier slopes the first 2 to 3 hours, but as soon as we get to the ridge, it will get steeper (50º) and windier. Also, there is a 65ft/20m of 80º on the top. Once on the summit (19,797ft/6.034m) we will have the chance to see many peaks like Ranrapalca, Oshapalca, Urus, Ishinca, etc. We will spend some time here resting, taking pictures, and then go down to the high camp. The round trip will take us 9 to 10 hours. Dinner will be served by late afternoon, overnight in tents (B/-/D)
We eat breakfast around 8 am and pack all of our equipment and belongings, ready to be transported by the donkeys. We will start the hike back to Collon (10,991ft/3.350m) where our transportation will be waiting to take us to the hotel in Huaraz town (10,138ft/3.090m), overnight in hotel (B/-/-)
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