Climbing Huascaran Sur in 7 Days

Ancash Province – Peru






7 days


We will leave the hotel in Huaraz town (10,138ft/3.090m) after breakfast, around 7 am. Our private transportation will take us along the Callejon de Huaylas, north of Huaraz, passing through towns and villages like Anta (9,350ft/2.850m), Marcara (9,022ft/2.750m), Carhuaz (8,694ft/2.650m), etc. When we get to the village of Musho (10,171ft/3.100m), around 9 am, the donkeys/horses will be ready to be loaded with our camping and climbing equipment and bring everything to the first camp. We will start hiking up in an open valley and into an eucalyptus tree forest. We will walk up for about 2 hours and then have a lunch break. We will continue our hike through a native forest (polylepys trees) and to the base camp (14,272ft/4.350m) for about 5 or 6 hours more. We will relax for the rest of the afternoon until dinner time around 7 pm. Overnight in tents (-/-/D)

We will leave base camp around 8 am after a good breakfast. We will hike up for 3 to 4 hours on a rocky, relatively steep section, but not too difficult, until we get to the moraine (15,748ft/4.800m). We will have a chance to get closer and better views of both Huascarans, the North and the South one, and the Huandoy peak.  We will rope up by the glacier (16,404ft/5.000m) and continue up for about 3 hour more on the glacier to get to the Camp I (17,389ft/5.300m). The whole ascent to this camp will take us 6 to 7 hours. We will set up our tents on the glacier. We will relax, take pictures and admire the unique landscape for the rest of the afternoon. Dinner will be served around 6 pm. Overnight in tents (B/-/D)

We will have breakfast, pack our climbing equipment and begin our ascent to Camp II (19,520ft/5.950m) around 7 am. The first hour will be not too steep, but we will soon be at quite a wide runnel, where we have to climb several sections of short distances between 10m to 15m across many crevasses. When we get to the relatively flat section on the upper part of the runnel, we will traverse and round the northern side of Huascaran Sur. The whole hike will take us 5 to 6 hours. Once here, we will set up our tents on the glacier, have lunch, relax, take pictures and admire the landscape for the rest of the afternoon. Dinner will be served earlier, around 5 pm. Overnight in tents (B/-/D)

We will wake up very early in the morning, around 1 am, eat a light breakfast and prepare/wear all of our climbing equipment. We will leave the camp by 2 am. The climb will be mainly an easier hike on the glacier slopes. Although, there will be some places where we need to pass crevasse and climb short ice sections. Once on the summit (22,205ft/6.768m), we can enjoy the wonderful surrounding peaks like Huascaran Norte, Chopicalqui, Huandoy, Pisco and several others from the Cordillera Blanca. We will spend some time taking pictures, recovering, eating, and start with our descent to camp 2. It will take us 8 to 9 hours to the summit and 3 to 4 hours to descent to camp 2. Once back, we will have something to eat and rest in the tents (B/-/D)

We will eat breakfast later, around 8 am. Then we pack all our equipment and start our descent to base camp (14,272ft/4.350m) around 9:30 am. It will take us 6 to 7 hours. Dinner will be served by late afternoon. Overnight in tents (B/-/D)

We will have breakfast around 8 am and pack all of our equipment and belongings, ready to be carried on the burros (donkeys).  We will start the way back to Musho (10,171ft/3.100m), where our transportation will be waiting to take us to the hotel in Huaraz town (10,138ft/3.090m). Overnight in Hotel (B/-/-)

We will use this day in case of bad weather or any eventualities; otherwise we will spend one more day in Huaraz (B/-/D)

Price: Please contact us

Land transportation and transfers
Professional IFMGA or ASEGUIM Mountain Guide (ratio 2 climbers -1 Guide)
Accommodation in tents (double)
All meals during the hikes and climbs (shown above with B: breakfast and D: dinner)
National park entrance fees
Group equipment (ropes, snow pickets, ice screws)
Camping equipment (sleeping bags, tents, kitchen tent, kitchen stuff, etc.)
Lamas/donkeys or porters to carry the climbing  gear to the base camps/refuge
International flight tickets
Meals in Hotels (lunch, dinner)

Single accomodation

Personal climbing gear

Insurance of any kind
Other non-specified expenses

Huascaran - Peru